The joys of travelling in Sicily

 29th April

I wrote about the trouble getting stamps previously. Now that I have plenty of stamps, the problem is where to post the cards. I have been carrying round half a dozen cards ready to post for the last 2 days, but because it was the weekend, all the post offices were closed and there are obviously no post boxes outside the post office. I know that the Italian postal system is notorious for inefficiency, but this is ridiculous. I did see one box – padlocked!! That’s one way to discourage people from using the post. Sorry anyone expecting a card from me – I can use the classic excuse; it’s in the mail, finally.
Chocolate – yummy yes, but not for breakfast. I would really like just some plain yoghurt, not flavoured, just plain. Hard to please I know. I have had various flavours, even one described as prune with fibre – a purple coloured slurp, with little brown bits stirred through. Why is all the yoghurt so sweet? The best I have been able to find is vanilla, and even that is very sweet. If this sounds too picky, I’d just like to say that I’m not really against Italian food and drink. Their coffee is wonderful, no probs getting decaf and I don’t have to ask for double strength, and I love the little bottles of prosecco that you can buy at every corner shop here, (and believe me, there are lots of corners). Also, the food – more on this later.
Washing. Who wants to do the laundry when on holiday, but it has got to be done. We were so pleased when we got to Palermo to discover we had a washing machine especially as we had some jeans and trousers to be washed. A sunny day, a late start, planned after a relaxed breakfast, so it seemed the perfect time to put a load on. First problem – Mike closed the door before we had added all our clothes and we couldn’t get the door open again without turning everything off at the power. That problem sorted, but how to turn the damn thing on? We pushed all the buttons until finally it started. Later we looked up all the labels on the buttons and found that we had chosen anti-crease, extra water and who knows what else. An hour and a half later, the machine had stopped – but with all the water still in the machine. Mike pressed all the buttons again until something happened – it started the cycle all over from the beginning again. Oh well, the clothes were probably pretty grubby.
Finally, the termini light came on (only 3 hours later). But again, the door wouldn’t open. We didn’t want to wash the clothes a third time, so with some jiggling, Mike persuaded the door to pop. And I thought that washing machines were meant to be time saving devices.
The long lunch and the lurking public holiday – being tourists, you never really know when something will open/close or why. We have been caught a couple of times by this little trap. Yesterday, we had planned to venture to Monreale to see the mosaics, but found that the closing times did not suit us, so we swapped our itinerary and visited a church called La Martorana in the morning.

This small church, very plain on the outside, has marvellous mosaics inside. It had originally been a mosque, which was then bequeathed to “an order of aesthetically challenged nuns” (Lonely Planet), who removed most of the mosaics to replace them with Baroque decorations. There are still enough mosaics left to create a wonderful impression, and in fact, this was my favourite church in Palermo because of its intimate space.

So, that afternoon, we visited Monreale instead, which leads me to my next comment about travelling:
Where is the bus stop? And where is the ticket office? We knew that the bus for Monreale left from the Piazza outside the station, but so did every other bus, local, regional, etc. in Palermo, as well as both regional and urban trains. We counted at least 7 ticket offices, each selling a different combo of ticket for the bus, or train, or both. After numerous questions, “Mi scusa, parla inglese” etc., we finally found the correct stop and a timetable, and, along with a crowd of tourists, plus a bus full of students going home for the day, we departed.
When we reached the last stop, the remaining kids got off, as did the driver, followed by a group of slightly confused tourists from many countries. Where was the famous Cattedrale? Not here in the midst of suburban tower blocks, that was certain. The driver kept pointing at the fast disappearing kids and shooing us after them, so obediently, if bemused, we all trundled after them up the hill, through more urban apartments, up stairs, across grimy car parks, Mike muttering after 10 minutes that it looked like we were going home for after school snacks.
Of course, we did eventually reach the Cattedrale and more marvellous mosaics, with gold everywhere.

This building was constructed to demonstrate that William II was as powerful as his grandfather, Roger II, who had built the Cappella Palatina. Despite its rather plain exterior, the inside is a mass of gold mosaics retelling 42 Old Testament stories. It also has panoramic views over Palermo.

Overall, a good day, and we have learnt to say one thing at least: “What can you expect … it is Sicily”.

Sunday in Sicily alla spiaggia

28th April

Saturday evening, we went to bed to the sound of motocicli zooming around, and cars cruising, windows open, playing loud Italian pop music. Sunday morning, it was church bells across the city, starting about eight, and continuing for hours. We decided that today, we would venture by train along the coast to the city of Cefalu, to visit the Norman Cattedrale and climb La Rocca.
Our plans were slightly delayed by the lack of trains in the morning, so had a relaxed brekkie on the rooftop terrace catching up on the essentials like the washing before our 1pm train. And surprisingly, it was a fast train, clean and comfortable and far better than the old Vline train to Melbourne.
The coast from Palermo was very picturesque, featuring mountains down to the sea, small villages set on sandy beaches, with the very blue sea in the background.
Cefalu itself is very spectacular. It is set on a wide sandy bay, with the medieval town surrounding the imposing Norman Cattedrale, with twin towers, and behind, the craggy Rocca, cliffs on three sides, and topped by the ruins of the old town and castle, dating at least to the ancient Greek settlement, and probably even older.

We explored the town first, very elegant, lots of lovely seafood restaurants and caffes, and of course the Cattedrale, built in thanks by the King for the safety of his fleet which was washed up here after a storm. More wonderful mosaics to admire, followed by a quick snack of a local speciality, a ricotta and sweetened almond cream filled pastry called a cannoli.

A quick look at the beach, too cold to swim according to us, but others were venturing in and lots were sunbaking, before the big climb up the rock to the original town, protected by various walls and castles. This was the ultimate place of refuge from invaders, especially the Arabs and was only abandoned when the Normans reconquered the area in the 1100s.


The views from the various vantage points along the path in the Parco della Rocca were spectacular. Apparently on a clear day, it is possible to see along the coast as far as the Aeolian Islands, right at the other end of Sicily. Although it was too hazy for us to see quite this far, we did get wonderful views down to the old town below and over the Cattedrale.
We walked the perimeter walls all round the Rocca and the views on the seaward side over the ocean from the cool pine forest were particularly good, especially as the day was quite hot, about 27. From there to the very top, the path became a little overgrown, and not so enjoyable, especially when I scared a snake. A snake you might ask, slightly incredulous! Yep, I was too, but definitely not a lizard! Very definitely black, no legs, at least 30cm long, and I didn’t see all of it. Apparently, there ARE poisonous vipers in Sicily. I finished that part of the walk in record time!

Miss our connection back to Palermo, so we have to console ourselves with una birra e un prosecco till the next train. Life could be worse.

Palermo

27th April

Palermo – a vibrant city full of noisy street markets and vendors, motocicli zooming down cobblestone alleys some only wide enough to walk through single file, beaten up cars, and surprising architectural gems hidden away between derelict palazzi.

 
The history of the place gives some idea of the eclectic nature of the food, architecture and culture. Founded by the Phoenicians, conquered by the Greeks, then the Romans, occupied by the Vandals, reconquered by the Byzantines, captured by the Saracens, then a Norman kingdom from 1072 (the Normans were having a busy time, having also just conquered Britain), passed to the German Hohenstaufen royal family, and then finally to the French Anjou kings. It was heavily bombed by the Allies during the Second World War, as seen by the ruined state of many of the once grand palazzi.

watch your step on the balcony…

Not an auspicious start, though, standing with our bags in drizzle on a dock at 6:30 am on a Saturday with our B&B 3 km away. But after a week walking on the Amalfi coast, trundling across Palermo was a doddle – the rain stopped, the traffic was light and the coffee was great.  Arriving at the Casa di Momo B&B, we found that we’d been upgraded to the top floor apartment, so we have our own kitchen, bathroom, bedroom, a couple of other rooms we don’t have a use for, and a washing machine(!) that sits on our own sunny terrace. There is even a little kitchen garden in pots, with bay, parsley, rosemary and all the other usual herbs. It’s a fantastic base for the next few days.
And just up the road, on Saturday morning, the Ballaro market was pumping!

We took a relaxing stroll from the market (more to come about that in a later post), snapping pictures as we jostled with the crowd. The noise of the vendors and the smells were almost overpowering.
We finally found our way to the Norman Palace, which was closed as the government was in session, but we toured the Capella Palatina, M muttering to me as we joined an enormous queue that this had better be worth it. And it was STUNNING, hence the record number of photos taken on any one day. This is another architectural gem of the ‘melting-pot’ style (a term coined by Pip), built in the 1100s by the Normans, using Jewish, Arabic and Christian artisans, in a building which incorporates gold mosaics of Byzantine style on walls and the roof, inlaid Arabic tile work and detailing on the floors and around the windows, and sections of wooden painted ceilings in the aisles.

For a change of pace, we also visited the remains of the Hermitage of St John, which was used as both a Christian church and as a Mosque,. This is another building which shows the influences of both east and western culture, having distinctive Arabic red domes, but Norman remodelling to create a church. It was a peaceful oasis with a tiny white cloister and small garden.
 
Last on our walking tour was the Cattedrale, shown at the beginning of the post – what an amazing building. It dominates the piazza with its towers, gothic arches, Baroque dome, plus smaller domes tiled in the distinctive green and yellow so common in southern Italy, and Arabic style windows and tiling.
Home via the markets again for an early end to a great day, with prosecco e birra, con formaggio. Bellissima.

24 hours in transit

26th April

An early start yesterday, packed, breakfasted, farewelled by our hosts (with a bottle of berry liqueur and one of citrus as a gift) and on the 8:30 bus down the hill to Positano. A two minute wait and onto the bus to Sorrento. Amazing, really. Arrivederci Amalfi!
And here’s a tip that wasn’t in the guide book. If you’re ever travelling from Positano to Naples, don’t go to Sorrento on the bus. Get off the bus at Meta, right outside the Circumvesuviana train station. I wish we had.  That way you save yourself an hour on the bus grinding through walking pace traffic for the privilege of catching a train back through Meta an hour and a half after the one you could have caught from there! :-/
After a week on the Amalfi Coast, I’d have to say that the ambience of the Napoli region compared to Amalfi, as viewed from the Sorrento to Naples train was quite a contrast – this is a tough neighbourhood. What a depressing place to live! Our train was absolutely packed, so stood most of the way to Herculaneum, where we carted our bags to the baggage room at the archaeological site. 
But we’re so glad we visited Herculaneum! Herculaneum probably broke our Ravello record for photos per minute. Just amazing to see timber beams and lintels still in place, charred by the eruption.

yo want fries with that, suh?
This gets the photo rate per minute up - take pictures of taking pictures!…

The sophistication of the architecture and interior decoration was impressive – well-off Romans really did live very well 2000 years ago. They estimate that 3/4 of the ancient town is still buried under modern day Ercolano – thankfully they haven’t dug it up yet because it took us 3 hours to see the bit that they have!



We arrived at Naples central station at about 5pm, planning to put our bags into the luggage room there for a few hours while we did some sightseeing. M had carefully researched the location of said room and we found the sign on its door without problem ……“in sciopero”. We don’t know why the luggage room clerk was on strike when no one else seemed to be, but there you go.
On a drizzly evening in Naples, still with our bags, we decided to head for the port on a bus, cooled our heels at a bar for an hour or so and boarded the ferry for Palermo early. By the time she sailed we were showered, dressed and sitting down to dinner. 
 
I had the best night’s sleep in ages and woke J with “Hey! Palermo is out the window!”

Dangers of la Costiera Amalfitana

25th Arpil

There are many dangers which await the unitiated traveller to the Amalfi. Here are some of the more serious:
1. Death by 1000 steps – It may seem farfetched that so many villages are connected by so many steps, but I can attest to the fact that there are 1003 steps down from Pontone, a hanging village, to Amalfi, on the coast. Pontone is certainly not the highest village on the coastline.
I
Left: If you look closely on the left hand side of the picture, just above the netting, you might be able to make out Mike on the path down the mountain to Amalfi. Right: Amalfi with the tower at Pontone on the ridge above.
Mike and I walked here yesterday, in the Valle die Mulini, which explores a narrow valley inland of Amalfi, and is the site of a series of paper mills built by the fascisti. It is a beautiful area of forest, waterfalls and ruined buildings. As it was Independence Day, a national public holiday, there were lots of Italian families out walking. We even passed one group who had one guy playing a tamborine while others sang. Just don’t have an accident on the trail because the ambulance isn’t going to rescue you any time soon. M has nicknamed our walks the Amalfi boot camps.
 


The cool Valle dei Mulini
2. Death by rockfall, avalanche, or falling off a cliff. Any of these is a possibility given the terrain. The whole coast is composed of weathered limestone cliffs, capes and mountains. Little villages cling to the side of the mountains, above villages tucked into small coves along the coast. A network of mule tracks still connects the villages with the inland and the coast. And if you don’t believe that living here can be dangerous, just give some thought to the people of Amalfi, who saw most of their town of 70,000 drop off into the sea after an earthquake.
 
The cliffside Belvedere at Ravello, and the cliffside walk down to Positano.
3. Death by bus. You might think that bus travel is safe. Think again and choose your bus seat (if you are lucky enough to get a seat that is) wisely. If you are not run over by a bus as you try to cross the road; or run over as you try to use the road as your footpath (there being no other footpath); or even knocked down by a bus on a proper footpath (as nearly happened to me in Naples as a bus was manoeuvring); you run the risk of death on the bus depending on the skill of your bus driver, the madness of other drivers on the road, and the luck or otherwise, of meeting another bus on a blind corner, with cars parked on the side of the road, cliff dropping sheer to the sea on one side and rock wall on the other. You may either be smeared into a rock wall, sheered off by an oncoming bus, or literally fall off a cliff into the sea.
Yesterday, our bus met another bus coming round a blind curve, with a cliff drop to the sea on one side and an ancient rock wall on the other. Both buses stopped, wound down the windows and to the sound of “a destra”, “a sinistre”, “avanti”, e “NON”, they inched past each other, eventually even pulling in their side mirrors, as cars behind tooted their horns, or backed up, and the cyclists and motocicli wove around both cars and buses. When both buses were safely past each other, our whole bus broke into spontaneous applause (or maybe it was just the relieved tourists who clapped).
4. Death by chocolate – if all else fails, eat pastries for breakfast every morning, especially ones with chocolate.
  
Breakfast on the terrace at Montepertuso, in our B&B overlooking Positano.

Ravello? Ravello!

Yep, on the right track – let’s get started…	… up lots of steps…
Directions from a very helpful local - “a destre”…
Hmmm – he only said  “buongiorno” to me…	Follow me, dear. For once I won’t get us lost!

Hang on! That’s Ravello over there! From now on Jen gets to navigate!
So, after a very entertaining bus trip to Amalfi and a walk through a long tunnel to Atrani in the next cove, we made a forgettable and very hot climb up to Ravello, with an unscheduled detour to the town of Scala, finally reaching Ravello at about 2:30.

Finally – Ravello!	J reckons she snapped this while they weren’t watching, but I don’t think so.  If she ever goes back, they’ll be ready…

In the following 2.5 hours we took more photos per minute that at any time in the trip so far.  The gardens and views from here were amazing.



A bus down to Amalfi, another entertaining bus trip to Positano, followed by another bus up the hill to Montepertuso got us home by about 8 pm.

24th April