Sunday in Sicily alla spiaggia

28th April

Saturday evening, we went to bed to the sound of motocicli zooming around, and cars cruising, windows open, playing loud Italian pop music. Sunday morning, it was church bells across the city, starting about eight, and continuing for hours. We decided that today, we would venture by train along the coast to the city of Cefalu, to visit the Norman Cattedrale and climb La Rocca.
Our plans were slightly delayed by the lack of trains in the morning, so had a relaxed brekkie on the rooftop terrace catching up on the essentials like the washing before our 1pm train. And surprisingly, it was a fast train, clean and comfortable and far better than the old Vline train to Melbourne.
The coast from Palermo was very picturesque, featuring mountains down to the sea, small villages set on sandy beaches, with the very blue sea in the background.
Cefalu itself is very spectacular. It is set on a wide sandy bay, with the medieval town surrounding the imposing Norman Cattedrale, with twin towers, and behind, the craggy Rocca, cliffs on three sides, and topped by the ruins of the old town and castle, dating at least to the ancient Greek settlement, and probably even older.

We explored the town first, very elegant, lots of lovely seafood restaurants and caffes, and of course the Cattedrale, built in thanks by the King for the safety of his fleet which was washed up here after a storm. More wonderful mosaics to admire, followed by a quick snack of a local speciality, a ricotta and sweetened almond cream filled pastry called a cannoli.

A quick look at the beach, too cold to swim according to us, but others were venturing in and lots were sunbaking, before the big climb up the rock to the original town, protected by various walls and castles. This was the ultimate place of refuge from invaders, especially the Arabs and was only abandoned when the Normans reconquered the area in the 1100s.


The views from the various vantage points along the path in the Parco della Rocca were spectacular. Apparently on a clear day, it is possible to see along the coast as far as the Aeolian Islands, right at the other end of Sicily. Although it was too hazy for us to see quite this far, we did get wonderful views down to the old town below and over the Cattedrale.
We walked the perimeter walls all round the Rocca and the views on the seaward side over the ocean from the cool pine forest were particularly good, especially as the day was quite hot, about 27. From there to the very top, the path became a little overgrown, and not so enjoyable, especially when I scared a snake. A snake you might ask, slightly incredulous! Yep, I was too, but definitely not a lizard! Very definitely black, no legs, at least 30cm long, and I didn’t see all of it. Apparently, there ARE poisonous vipers in Sicily. I finished that part of the walk in record time!

Miss our connection back to Palermo, so we have to console ourselves with una birra e un prosecco till the next train. Life could be worse.