Compared to other parts of Sicily, Syracuse is relatively gentile and elegant, especially Ortigia, which was originally an island and is now joined to the mainland by three short bridges. We are staying in Ortigia, in an apartment hotel located in a narrow lane way that intersects with the street in the picture and is just wide enough for only two people to walk side by side
It is only two minutes walk from the main piazza, which is dominated by the Duomo, a stunning building. Originally a Greek temple dedicated to Athena and built in the 5th century BC, it was converted into a church 1200 years later in the 7th century AD by infilling between each of the huge Doric columns of the original temple and cutting arches into the interior walls. The Normans subsequently made further modifications and then someone slapped a huge Baroque facade on it, but the interior was fortunately left relatively untouched.
The original columns can still be seen on the outside and inside of the church, and two columns still frame the massive double doors at the entrance. It provides a very powerful effect – you feel that these huge, partly obscured columns are truly ancient. The interior has been left quite plain, with simple stone arches and beautiful leadlight windows high up in the walls. Late in the afternoon, the sun blazes through these windows filling the church with a golden light, and the exterior walls and facade reflect the afternoon glow. You literally need sunnies for the glare from the white stonework.
Also in this beautiful piazza are various palazzi, grand official buildings, and lots of outdoor cafes. We had thought that Siracusa might be very busy, but it was just pleasantly buzzing. It was especially appealing at dusk, when the setting sun lit up the surrounding buildings, and when locals and tourists were out for an evening walk, or having an aperitive under the umbrellas. We partook one evening – limoncello with ice is just made for a warm afternoon in the Italian sun, after a hard day’s work sightseeing.
And then there were the renovators’ delights…
The other section of Syracuse, on the mainland, is the modern city, which (ironically) is where the main archaeological sites are to be found: the famous Greek theatre, the Ear of Dionysius (Orecchio di Dionisio) and the Anfiteatro Romano. The Greek theatre is built into a hill, with various tombs from the necropolis behind, and an amazing freshwater spring flowing from a cave. When we visited, the theatre was being prepared for a series of plays by Sophocles, so the stone seating had been covered by wooden benches and the stage was covered by sand and props, but it was interesting to see that the theatre was still in use.
The Ear of Dionysius is a curious cave hacked into the side of the huge quarry next to the theatre. Legend has it that the king/tyrant Dionysius used the amazing acoustics of the cave to hear the plots of his political prisoners who were kept in the quarry. It was named by Caravaggio in the 1500s. Whatever the truth, sound is amplified and echoes throughout the chamber. The day we were there, the Ear was filled with teenagers on a school trip so it sounded like a packed nightclub. Then, a guide with a small group of tourists hustled the teenagers out, demanded silence from those left, stood at a particular spot and began to sing, very quietly. The song echoed and echoed throughout the space – just magic.
A quick look at the Roman amphitheatre and a visit to the huge Archaeological Museum concluded most of our sightseeing for the day.
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