The genius of Gaudi

Anyone visiting Barcelona cannot escape without seeing at least some Gaudi. As I am interested in mosaics, Gaudi’s work was high on my list of things to see. I wasn’t disappointed.

His most famous work is La Sagrada Familia, the huge church which was begun early last century and is hoped to be finished in 2026, the centenary of his death. Gaudi worked on this church for 40 years. It came to dominate his life. He even lived on the site, leading a near monastic life. Eventually, he was killed when he was run over by a tram. Although his name was well known, he had lived as a hermit for so long, that his body was not at first identified.

This is a huge structure, based on Gothic principles, with columns holding up a vaulted ceiling, and towers dominating the Barcelona skyline. All the elements of a traditional Gothic church are incorporated into the building, but tweaked to fit Gaudi’s vision, which was to pay homage to the organic nature of life. The facades include animal and plant carvings around the two main portals, as in a traditional church, but in Catalan modernist style.

After eight weeks travelling, and seeing some pretty impressive architecture, I have to say that this building moved me like no other.  I think it’s gob-smackingly beautiful.  The exterior is challenging, but the interior is just wonderful.  Then you start thinking about what design tools Gaudi had 100 years ago – none of the computer modelling available today – and you begin to realise what an achievement this building is.  All funded by donations.  I’d love to get a better understanding of how the building design and construction has changed as design and building technologies have evolved over the last century. 

We took the option to go up one of the towers, which was really interesting.  You take a lift up, and find yourself in a building site with cranes, workers in hard hats and a lot of scaffolding.  Seeing how it’s put together way up there was fascinating, but would not be a happy experience if heights worry you!

We then walked to La Pedrera (the quarry), an apartment block Gaudi designed in the early 20th centrury just before launching into La Sagrada.  Again, an amazing structure.  Even the door knobs were custom designed. Again, what an original and beautiful structure.  The famous roof was beautiful and the attic, where you walk under the parabolic brick arches supporting the roof, was wonderful.  This was originally where the domestic servants did the laundry apparently, but its a beautiful space.

A short walk to view the outside of Casa Batlo, another work of Gaudi’s, then for a change of pace, we walked La Rambla without being pick-pocketed, and really enjoyed the market.  After a deal more wandering, we finished up in the Cathedral square drinking sangrias.

And very nice too…